I needed to know if America’s recent love affair with poke (pronounced poh-keh), that tangy, sublime, umami-packed, raw Hawaiian seafood salad that has swept the nation, was in fact a problem. It had been a couple of weeks since I called Bushman to ask her about how Americans consume seafood, how that’s changing, and what it means for the fishes in the sea and the ocean itself. Seconds later, we order the poke burger (among other things). Then we eat the whole bowl,” said Jennifer Bushman, founder of Route To Market and director of sustainability at the Bay Area seafood chain Pacific Catch. “When there’s a bowl of popcorn in the middle of the table, we think, I’m gonna eat two bites. Join Longreads and help us to support more writers.Īdam Skolnick | Longreads | February 2020 | 22 minutes (6,125 words)
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